Truffle Recipes
Your guide to truffle recipes
Truffle describes a group of edible mycorrhizal (subterranean)
mushrooms (genus Tuber, class Ascomycetes, division Mycota).
The ascoma (fruiting body) of truffles is highly
prized as food. In 1825 Brillat-Savarin called the truffle "the
diamond of the kitchen" and praised its aphrodisiac powers.
(Physiology of Taste Meditation vi). While the aphrodisiac characteristics
of truffles have not been established, it is still held in high
esteem in colloquial northern Italian and French cooking, and
in international haute cuisine.
In addition to the White and to the valued Black, there are at
least another seven to eight species of truffle found in Umbria
which are used in traditional recipes.
The truffle grounds are located in the Umbrian hilly forests:
only this region can supply the fine sapidity of the wrinkly black
truffles, the unique acuteness of perfumes of the aristocratic
white truffles, and we should add, together with an entire serie
of 'in-between season' truffles, the particular fragance of the
summer "Scorzone".
The Umbrian Valued Black Truffle Ripens from November
to March; its area of diffusion includes all the territories bordering
the course of the Nera, of the Corno and of the Sordo rivers,
the hillsides of the mountains of Spoleto, the martani Mounts,
the Mounts of Trevi and the Subasio.
Its size can vary from the size of a nut to the
one of an apple or an orange. The bark is blackish or directly
black but, even it is wrinkly. Its pulp is of colour black-purplish,
with fine veins of white colour which, are taking colourations
brown-reddish.
This species is present at an altitude than can go from 250-300
meters up to 900-1000. The picking is made only in precise periods
of the year, which is at ripe spore, and exclusively with the
help of the dogs, in order to avoid a useless "hoeing"
of the land that would compromise forever the precious "mycelium".
The white truffle is even rarer and more valued.
The production area is the Tevere Valley, the regions of Gubbio,
Gualdo and Orvieto. It arrives to maturation from October until
all December, but in areas particularly protected from the frost
we can find it during the entire month of January. It vegetates
at a higher depth than other truffle. It prefers the contact with
some higher plants such as the poplar, the willow and the harrier.
The fascination of the white truffle has a lot of components:
the sharp perfume, the size and the form, which has to be as regular
and rounded as possible, the matchless savour that best expresses
itself served raw without the need for salt or seasonings. The
size can vary from the size of a small nut to the one of a big
orange and presents itself in a subspherical form variously rounded
with pimples and emergent horns. Its pulp has a colour going from
light brown to dark brown. Sometimes, when the plant with which
it is living in symbiosis is a lime-tree or a oak, it is pink,
with a tendency towards red. Is served cut in very thin slices.
Because its aroma is more decisive it is better to serve it with
simple warm dishes that enhance the aroma.